Jacques Fath, Couture of the '50s (London Fashion Week 2009 Handbag Review)

This year sees a new venue for the annual event, the London Fashion Show, which has now arrived at Somerset House. Thus at the venue where once Admiral Nelson attended to collect his orders, now the drums beat to a different tune, one of contemporary modernism.
New Handbags from the House of Jacques Fath
Standing amongst a small but pleasing collection of what might at one time have been described as a grandmothers' handbag collection, the author recalled anecdotal tales and the black and white photographs shown to him over the years of his French grandmother, who had spent many of the pre-Second World War years in Nice elegantly dressed for the Society occasions of the day.
Regardless of an initial somewhat patronising first thought, the more one observes, the more one likes the ageless qualities. But what was the main factor that caught people’s attention? Colour, yes, which was part of the overall attraction; line, classical 1950s, though it was much more than that.
Considering the inspirations for the design base revealed a puzzle of how or where to find a comparison. Examining the living world, the author's initial thought was that of a displayed shape of a beetle’s wing casings; about to expose the underlying wings prior to flight, with the elevated handles resembling the antennae. The casings appeared only on the larger handbags within the collection and were all finished with a wooden bar top closure, and a decorated metal clasp. The quality of the fine leather with a textured finish was second to none.
This applied particularly to the small clutches on display and especially the gold close chain link clutch with a classic '50s large gold globe fastener. On opening it reveals double lined gusseted sides, with a matching interior of smooth finely cut pink veal hide. So who was Jacque Fath?
Jacque Fath
His era has been describe as the “Golden age of Couture”. He opened his House of Couture in1937 at the age of twenty five, but his career would soon be interrupted by the ravages of war, resulting in imprisonment until his release in 1941.
Within four years he had released a range of perfume which is still available today. His business grew exponentially after visiting America, acquiring orders to design for the retail market and exposure of his works through the movie industry in such films as The Red Shoes. His lasting claim to fame must surely be the design of a wedding dress for Rita Hayworth in 1949.

The Future of Couture
With Laurence Dumenil (pictured) now taking the reins as designer for the House of Jacques Fath,could he reach the bar that has been set so high? A resounding yes; his designs on show at London Fashion Week are praiseworthy of maintaining the integrity to the brand image. Dumenil states in the show's biography: "I enjoy everything about him! His impish, audacious, witty, quaint personality, which led him to a typically Parisian rise to fame... his ways of masking, with an apparent bubbly, carefree mind, his successful talents as well as his daring, avant-garde modernity."
These masterpieces are not for everyday use; they warrant a special occasion, no, they demand it. If only you give the respect which this couture demands, a dream of a generation, a “Golden Age of Couture”.

For your designer handbags visit Voulue today at www.voulue.com

Interview with Nadine Heintze

"My name is Nadine Heintze, founder of Nani Coldine. We started out as a handbag label and soon developed into a design studio with focus on handbags and fashion illustration. Nani Coldine is based in Cologne in Germany. Our own handbag label is our own prestigious baby.  Each collection is inspired by different themes. So you will find the Frauleinwunder-Collection, which plays with traditional German Elements. On the other site you find the Garden Eden Collection - an innocent expression of individuality.

Some key materials in the Collections are: Knotted Scarves, alcantara Linings, high quality leather, our own print designs and embroidery designs as decorative elements. The targeted group are women and girls with a passion for fashion and are not afraid to make a statement with their accessories! After my fashion design graduation in Antwerp and Arnhem I did several jobs as a designer in fashion. I was because of a strong wish to bring more personality into my design work that I decided to run my own business. Designing handbags, especially my own, gives me the freedom to create every day live companions with a feminine sense of humor.  A huge inspiration for our work is contemporary fashion illustration. I do commission work on fashion illustration myself- out of passion.

I can tell too many nightmare stories – especially when you deal with production and supplier companies in different countries. Since 2007 the Nani Coldine Team which started out as a one man show, has expanded and since 2008 we also offer a variety of design services. And we are extremely proud to have launched a Trendforecast book called “BAGSTAGE”, featuring the latest trends in handbag fashion. We also give tutorials in design academies and seminars at trade fairs or Conferences. Our Bags are sold in our favorite shops and it is great to receive positive personal feedback from all our different customers".

Heidi Mottram talks about her work.

"My collection is inspired by the natural world, focusing on flowing lines and textures enhanced by the tactile nature of eel skin leathers but with a modern twist, with a signature hot fuchsia pink zip. Eel skin products are traditionally smooth and linear due to the natural pattern and construction of the skin, but I am now starting to manipulate the skins to create more organic structures and textures.  The brand is starting to be widely recognized on the worldwide fashion scene, with stockists in London, Paris, Spain, LA, Tokyo, Germany and Greece.

I work solely with eel skin because I am inspired by its wonderful texture and unique definition, especially when compared to ordinary, everyday cowhide. It is feather light and becomes softer and suppler with use and is also a bi-product meaning that the eels were not killed for their skin. It is the combination of these qualities that makes eel skin such a valuable alternative to other luxury leather products in the same market.
Variations in color and other markings capture the natural beauty of the eel, making each eel skin accessory distinctive and one-of-a-kind. In addition, should it get wet, eel skin does not change texture or watermark unlike traditional leather - making it the ideal material for the British weather.  Eel skin is amazingly durable, being 150% stronger than cowhide of the same thickness, making it a long-lasting material for everyday use.

I was born in Cheshire, England, UK. From as far back as I can remember I loved making things, drawing and painting. If anything or anyone stood still long enough they ran the risk of me drawing them or on them! This love of art remained throughout my school life and after my A-levels I decided to move to London to complete a foundation course at the London College of Fashion after which I went on to complete a degree in textiles at Central St Martins College of Art and Design. It was soon after my degree and working as a pr junior that I set up my own business originally painting and designing and making one-off corsets. It was whilst traveling looking for inspiration and materials that I happened upon eel skin. I knew about the material as my mother had a purse made from it when I was little. I loved it! I decided that I had to work with this material. Initially I made corsets from it but then embarked on a pattern cutting course for accessories and decided to travel down the bag and purse route which I really enjoy! I now focus on the eel skin bags and purses and went Ltd at the end of 2007. It is an amazing material and I get to do what I love which is design.

For my previous collection I had sent off my designs for sampling. Unfortunately an old random doodled bag sketch had been included into the files that I had sent. When I received my samples I also received a sample of my unusual sketch. The bag had been doodled one day whilst I was on the phone and was not a serious drawing. I ended up with a very strange alien looking that had been copied perfectly from my scribbles! The panic suddenly set in that I was going to receive stock of this bizarre bag! I instantly picked up the phone to put a halt to this. This is not quite a nightmare but the sudden panic that ran through will not be forgotten!

The greatest achievements include happy customers who tell me that they love my bags and also being awarded the impressive accolade of ‘Business of the Year’ from Newham College for my outstanding and inspirational work with eel ski."

Wooden Handbags ( London Fashion Week Handbag Review 2)

Would you consider buying a wooden handbag?

Billy Connolly was rather surprised when the loggers in the forests of Western Canada didn't yell "timber". What would he say about a collection of wooden handbags?

Wooden Handbags
Ones thoughts must become a little incredulous at the possibility of owning a wooden handbag. How would you envision such a creation? MDF fixed together with glue and nails, or rough old bark, creeping with woodworm? Well you couldn’t be further from the truth if you tried.
This was an exhibition, a showcase of outstanding imagery, presented by Hamish Menzies of Rocio. As an eloquent ambassador, who truly believes in the justifiable position that his designer handbags hold in the fashion world, provides a dream of ownership. You are introduced to an array of colourful sparkling jewels with the decorative intensity only seen on works of art. These exquisite, lightweight delicacies of highly varnished and polished wood make you scream, “I want one”.

The Collection
It speaks to you, especially the “Juliette”, a little black clutch handbag, with a decorative red heart, whispering eloquently “Je t’aime”. This contemporary piece is a must for the believers of love and joy. With hope and happiness oozing out of this clutch, it will make a statement for years.The handle is at an unusual angle of nearly 45 degrees, maximising the display of the bag.

Ladybirds also make a special collection; they feature as three dimensional sculptures scampering over a black gloss background. For the handbag voyeur’s delight, these will produce the “oohh” and “wow” remarks. You would be impossible not to be seen; you will become highly conscious that you are being stared at. If that’s the response you are looking for, be sure you can handle it before you get one.

How many are returned due to breakage? Hardly any, and they tend to be purely cosmetic, perhaps a small scratch, reflecting the hardiness of these little gems and of course, the careful owners. These handbags are made from acacia trees, which produce very hard timber, so general speaking there are no concerns. Hamish also offered the reassurance that they are able to provide a repair service if necessary.

Tree of Life
Do not concern yourself over sustainability when sourcing Acacia; it is a wonderfully fast growing tree that has many intrinsic qualities and historical uses. In the east, Ayurvedic medicine, consider acacia as being useful for premature ejaculation. Though hitting your partner with your handbag is definitely out of the question, even if it is made of hard wood”. It is also commonly used for making incense, and the fruit for alcoholic beverages.

World audience and collectors
A little faux pas was announced in that a certain member of Vogue Nippon had just taken possession of a couple of Rocio’s handbags. It is not surprising that the attention of Rocio has become a topic of conversation amongst the high flying professionals of the Fashion World. Rocio is a UK fashion company which supplies to over 35 countries with their handmade wooden designer handbags.
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